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frida RESTAURANT AND BAR
Mexican fine dining Reviewed by Don Young Every once in a while there is a new and interesting place to dine, with food that captures your imagination and an atmosphere that makes you feel like a guest in someone’s kitchen. Frida has that feel, without the heat and bustle of the kitchen, which is somewhere out the back, where the crew does magic to the dishes before they are brought quickly to the diners. You almost expect someone’s Mama to come out of the kitchen to ensure you are eating the vegetables, but there is no Mama, just Jose Hadad, the executive chef and his enthusiastic kitchen staff. The concept of the restaurant is to provide fine Mexican dining in an intimate surrounding, reflecting a theme inspired by Frida Kahlo and her passion for expressing on canvas what she felt in her heart. As it says on the frida website, “The truthfulness, rebellious essence and natural talent of Frida Kahlo are the inspirations for our Mexican restaurant.” Easy to say, but the proof is in the food and the dining experience. The menu has a variety of appetizers and entres, beginning with basic components of chicken, lamb, beef or seafood that are combined with other ingredients and seasonings to become something very special for the palate. As an example, the appetizer, Enchiladas de Barbacoa: “Gently braised lamb, “Borracha” style salsa, cotija cheese, coriander and onion” sounds interesting, but once it is in your mouth, the flavours take on an identity that is greater than the sum of the ingedients. Or consider the dinner entre, Camarones al Guajillo, “Jumbo shrimp covered with toasty garlic and guajillo pepper sauce, seared spinach and Mexican rice.” One bite and you know that you are not just eating dinner; you are beginning a culinary experience. And other choices like Quail and Mole Poblano, or the Lamb Barbacoa, will tempt you, and assure that you will return for another culinary experience. Jose Hadad may have the title of Executive Chef, but once you start eating, you will consider him as an artist. He may not paint like frida, but his creativity is every bit as satisfying. With the assistance of the friendly and professional staff, each guest is made to feel they are entitled to an exceptional dining experience. On the several occasions I have been there, they have succeded admirably. They use fresh ingredients and create all the sauces, guacamole and salsa that are served. The meals are exceptional; the service is excellent. The restaurant is decorated in a modern style, with comfortable seating and a cosy bar. We sat at the bar on a recent evening with Jose and his fiance, Dianne. The restaurant is Jose’s dream, and now Diane’s as well. We talked of growing up in Mexico and their path to opening a restaurant to offer “exceptional Mexican food to the people of Toronto.” They’re comitted to “food that has an elegance and depth.” Each detail is important, even down to the choice of coffee. As Jose explains, “Chiapas coffee beans are imported from Mexico, and custom roasted for our restaurant, in both regular and Swiss Water decaffinated.” The coffee has a touch of something special, which makes the coffee as exceptional as the meals. Jose wants it that way. Dianne ensures the same attitude extends to the service with their guests. Tuesday nights are a nice time to visit, with live music in the evening. Stop in for a meal, or just a refreshment and dessert, and enjoy the ambience. A bit of Mexico, right in the centre of Toronto. Easy to get to and a pleasure to spend time in. Reservations are suggested, call 416.787.2221 or visit the website for the menu and information: www.fridarestaurant.ca. frida is open at 999 Eglinton Avenue West, Toronto, Tuesday to Saturday, 5:00 pm to 10:00 pm.           |